Fashion and the Environment

Mar 27

By Payton Salyer

The introduction of fast fashion to our world has caused unimaginable destruction. The term fast fashion refers to a large sector of the fashion industry whose business model relies on cheap and speedy production of low-quality clothing, which gets pumped quickly through stores to meet the latest and newest trends. Even couture brands have begun to adopt fast fashion practices, cutting environmental and ethical corners to widen their pockets. Fires, forced poverty, the torture of innocent animals, and so much pollution that it is now one of the Earth’s largest contributors were born as a result.

Second only to the fossil fuel industry, fashion is one of the largest polluters in the world. More than sixty percent of fabric fibers are now synthetics, derived from fossil fuels- meaning when our clothes inevitably end up in landfills, they will not decay. Nor will the synthetic microfibers in our oceans, lakes, forests, animals, and human bodies. As written by The Revelator, “The textile industry pumps between 1.22 and 2.93 billion metric tons of carbon dioxide into the atmosphere every year. The result is that, by some estimates, the life cycle of textiles (including laundering) accounts for 6.7% of all global greenhouse gas emissions. That’s the equivalent of every person on the planet taking a 2,500-mile flight every year.” The pressure to reduce prices and speed up production rates means that ethical and environmental issues are neglected. Many synthetic textile dyes used today, like azo dyes, are carcinogenic. While banned in the EU, USA, Canada, and other nations, they are still common in fast fashion clothing produced in countries with little labor or environmental laws. These dyes are easily absorbed into your skin, as they are water-soluble, and can cause symptoms of irritation, endocrine disruptions, pituitary tumor formation, and, in extreme cases, cancer.

Even when fast fashion avoids using polyesters and other synthetic fabrics, it poses a significant threat to our environment—the high demands of fast fashion lead to the overconsumption of natural fabrics, such as conventional cotton. The production of these fabrics requires massive amounts of water, and they are often grown in dry regions with limited rainfall. This results in two significant issues: not only are the vast quantities of water used to grow cotton for clothing taken from residents who already face water scarcity every year, but sea basins are drying up due to the high production rates.

Animals are not spared from the harm caused by fast fashion. The toxic dyes and microfibres released into the wild by the masses are ingested by land and marine life to devastating effect. The industry accounts for twenty to thirty-five percent of all the microplastics that flow into the ocean. When eaten by marine life, it harms their insides, leading to heart problems and birth defects in the sea creatures. Microplastics cause a decline in feeding behavior and fertility, slow larval growth and development, increase oxygen consumption, and stimulate the production of reactive oxygen species. In other words, it kills them slowly.

They also kill, use, and sell the fur of real animals as faux fur. Under the guise of fake fur, fast and high-fashion couture brands sell the furs of real animals. In 2019, The Age wrote, “One of the jackets with a fur trim around the hood was labeled as ‘100% polyester; made in China,’ but testing confirmed the hairs were from a raccoon or raccoon dog. Another item was labeled ‘Brim and Brown 100 percent rabbit blend’, but test results found ‘the appearance of the medulla and the shaft of hairs in this item indicated that they are inconsistent with rabbit ... but consistent with raccoon ... or raccoon dog.’” These animals are not just killed, though; they are tortured to death (TW for animal abuse). They are kept in cages with little food, little water, no medical treatment, and barely enough resources to keep them alive before they are paralyzed via electrocution and beaten or skinned to death. So much real fur has been produced that it is now cheaper than faux fur.

Thankfully, there are alternatives and solutions. Many fashionable clothing brands focus on sustainability —Beyond Retro, Tunnel Vision, Reformation, Pact, and others listed here —but sustainability is expensive and not in the average person’s price range. ThredUp is an online consignment store focused on sustainability and reasonable prices. They have a wide selection, categories based on current trends, and a page filled with outfits and links to similar pieces they have on site. Their website offers plus sizes, petite, junior, maternity, and tall for all genders and ages. Consignment stores like Depop, Mercari, and local thrift stores are also viable options. If you need new clothing, checking your thrift stores first for sustainability and affordability is always a good idea.

However, the best thing one can do as a consumer is to wear what they already have. Overconsumption is a serious issue with the younger generations as trend cycles quicken and style becomes synonymous with social media’s micro trends and aesthetics. The best thing you can do for the environment from a fashion standpoint is to develop your style and wear what you have! When one participates too strongly in microtrends and internet aesthetics, they buy lots of clothes all at once and then throw them out three months later when the trend passes. More clothes are being purchased and made, and more are going into landfills. It also helps your wallets.

There are also organizations you can donate to or volunteer with that focus on slowing down fashion and putting more regulations on brands like Amazon, Shein, H&M, Hollister, etc. For example, Fashion Revolution, Fashion For Good, Sustainable Fashion Forum, Global Fashion Agenda, Clean Clothes Campaign, and other sites listed at World Fashion Exchange.

There are second options, and there are solutions. It’s understandable for one to feel like there’s nothing they can do- like they have no choice regarding shopping. Quoting, "No ethical consumption under capitalism," but that is not entirely true. It also doesn't mean one can't try to find the best option, nor does it excuse them from choosing the worst. The fashion industry is ultimately inescapable; one can't walk around without clothes, and naturally, people want to look good in them. It’s just important to know the problems that the industry causes and the effects of consumerism- to be aware of other options. Ultimately, primary blame falls on the brands, but pressure from consumers in the masses causes change.

Cited Sources

https://www.nytimes.com/2019/09/03/books/review/how-fast-fashion-is-destroying-the-planet.html

https://www.worldfashionexchange.com/blog/sustainable-fashion-organizations-in-the-world/#:~:text=GLOBAL%20FASHION%20AGENDA%20(GFA),Summit%20and%20the%20Innovation%20Forum.

https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2021/may/30/should-we-all-stop-shopping-how-to-end-overconsumption

https://www.hsi.org/news-resources/mis-labelled-fur-uk/

https://www.worldanimalprotection.org.uk/latest/blogs/fashion-industry-animal-cruelty/#:~:text=The%20problem%20with%20cruelty%20in,a%20coat%2C%20bag%20or%20shoe.

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC9205308/#:~:text=In%20aquatic%20invertebrates%2C%20microplastics%20cause,production%20of%20reactive%20oxygen%20species.

https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/33333672/#:~:text=Azo%20dyes%20in%20environmental%20media,tumor%20formation%2C%20and%20endocrine%20disruptions.

https://www.hqts.com/azo-dye-test-a-guide-to-the-compliance-for-importers/#:~:text=Azo%20dyes%20are%20a%20type,been%20banned%20in%20many%20countries.

https://therevelator.org/textiles-climate-emissions/#:~:text=The%20textile%20industry%20pumps%20between,all%20global%20greenhouse%20gas%20emissions.

https://www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/a-new-textiles-economy

https://www.nature.com/articles/s43017-020-0039-9